Textile materials and method of making same



Patented Oct. 4,, 1949 zssasci TEXTILE MATERIALS AND MAKING SAME WhitePlains, N.

E. Weiss,

m" orrica Y., assignor to United Merchants & Manufacturers Ina,Wilmington, Del, a corporation of Delaware No Drawing. ApplicationNovember 12, 1947, Serial No. 785,513

This invention relates to textile materials and fabrics in general, andmore particularly to fabrics or materials used for apparel, such as, forexample, shirts, dresses, pajamas, blouses or the like.

The present application is a continuation in part of co-pendingapplication Serial Number 652,563, filed March '7, 1946, and of U. S.Patent No. 2,433,722, granted December 30, 1947.

The invention relates to synthetic textiles and has for an object theelimination of some of the more common deficiencies found in syntheticfabrics under the conditions and requirements of ordinary uses. Thesedeficiencies are normal to most fields of wearing apparel, and areparticularly notable in men's shirts, pajamas, blouses. sportswear,children's wear and other articles of apparel.

12 Cls. (6L 28--73) It has longbeen recognized that a fabric used forthe purposes mentioned should be made of socalled spun yarn. These spunyarns are composed of short fibers of a predetermined length, uniform ornot uniform-such as cotton, wool, etc., in the case of natural fibers,or such as spun rayon, spun acetate, etc., in the case of syntheticfibers.

Moreover, many of the cotton yarn fabrics ordinarily employed in suchapparel have left much to be desired from the standpoint of appearanceand hand as compared with fabrics made from spun yarn of syntheticfibers. The synthetic yarn fabrics possess a most desirable subdued andrich lustre and are more luxurious and soft in hand.

Many worsted yarn fabrics composed in whole or in major part of wool arealso used for apparel. While these fabrics possess desirable hand,lustre and softness, they have the disadvantage of high cost.Furthermore, they cannot readily be laundered. By their very nature,they must be subjected to special finishing processes, at leastinitially, to obtain the desired appearance and hand. In the hands ofthe wearer or consumer, almost inevitably this type of fabric must bedry cleaned and cannot be laundered.

Synthetic yarns are produced in two different physical forms. In thefiber state they are commonly spun into yarn by the varied processes ofcarding, combing, drafting and spinning. These are therefore known asspun yarns. The other form normally is known as continuous filament yam.These are produced by means of chemicals and by a continuous extrusionprocess of combining fine filaments into a unitary continuous thread oryarn. Spun i. e., being composed of short fibers, are considerablyinferior in strength to yarns of the continuous filament type.Conversely, yarns made of continuous filament fibers are inherentlystronger. Heretofore, many attempts have been made to make fabricexclusively from continuous filament yarns; and not withstanding thefact that large sums have been expended to design, develop and promotethe same, they remain for the most part undesirable from the standpointof appearance and for other reasons. Usually such fabrics have adefinitely objectionable high and cheap looking sheen. They do not showthe roundness of thread or the depth of fabric made from yarns composedof spun fibers.

Generally it is recognized that in the field of apparel, fabrics shouldbe washable and should, at the same time, retain stability. However,synthetic fabrics, when subjected to laundering, very often do notretain the original-dimensions of the arments as, manufactured. Thiscondition or requirement for dimensional stability is of conside'rableimportance, especially where, as is usually the case, any extended orrepeated use of the garment is intended. Therefore, for many years thoseskilledln the art have attempted to produce synthetic materialspossessing this very desirable and, in fact. essential quality ofdimensional stability.

Fabrics made from yarns of synthetic fibers lose a considerable portionof their original tensile strength when subjected to moisture, incomparison to cotton fabrics of substantially similar weight andconstruction. They begin by having a lower tensile strength in the drystate, and ordinarily will be about of their'normal dry strength in thewet state. Whensubjected to normal body moisture, especially during thesummer months, such fabrics may rip or tear under the strain of ordinarywear: thus rendering the garments unfit for further use. Furthermore, itis common knowledge that synthetic fabrics intended to replace high costworsted fabricsnormally utilized in the apparel field have thedeficiencies commonly associated with such worsted ii ibrlc i. e., thenecessity for dry cleaning and yarns, due to their nature,

the lack of dimensional stability, especially when fabrics of this typeare subjected to laundering.

The present invention, therefore, contemplates the production ofsynthetic yarns, fabrics and materials having the features normallyassociated with fabrics made exclusively or nearly so from spun yarn;such as a rich, subdued lustre and a luxurious soft hand and touch,although made in part from continuous filament yarns. Another object isto produce synthetic yar'ns, fabrics and textile materials having thedesirable properties of fabrics made of spun yarn, but characterized byhigh wet and dry tensile strength and dimensional stability.

The invention further proposes a synthetic fabric of substantially equalor greater strength than a fabric of comparable weight made of cotton. Afurther object is the manufacture of synthetic fabrics or articles ofapparel which the consumer or wearer may satisfactorily launder withoutthe necessity of dry cleaning. Another object is the manufacture ofsynthetic piece goods such as, for example, a material of unusualwearability and high screening power, having the soft handcharacteristic of high grade mousseline fabrics. In the finished productor article. such material has the appearance of a fabric made whollyfrom spun yarns, even though comprised at least in part of continuousfilament yarns. It is, however, dimensionally stable, stronger andaltogether more serviceable than spun yarn material.

With the above and other objects in view, as will be apparent, thepresent invention contemplates the manufacture or production of yarns,fabrics and textile materials characterized by high wet and dry strengthand dimensional sta hility. For the yarns, it proposes the compositeassociation of a continuous filament core with a drafted wrapping offibers. The material forming the core may be a polyamide continuousfilament such as, for example. nylon, or Vinyon or a copolymer of vinylchloride and vinyl acetate. Prior to associating or combining the corewith the wrapper, such core is preferably thread sized with polyvinylalcohol, gelatin, or other suitable sizing material to impartflexibility and strength thereto.

The wrapper element of the composite yarn may be one or more rovings oftextile fibers such as spun rayon, spun acetate, or cotton, wool ornatural fibers or blends thereof. Following the sizing of the core, thewrapper and the core components may then be made up into a compositeyarn by means of conventional drafting and spinning apparatus.Thereafter a second sizing may be applied to at least some of suchcomposite yarns by means of slashing. If it is desired to fabricatewoven piece goods as the finished product, ordinarily no sizing isapplied to those composite yarns intended for the weft in the weavingoperations. The composite yarns intended for the warp, however, arenormally sized prior to weaving. To that end, the several compositeyarns required for the warp are run through a slashing machine. Thus, ina preferred form of the present invention, two separate and distinctsizings may be applied to the core elements of the composite yarnsintended for the warp, while only one sizing is applied to the wrappercomponents. On the other hand, with respect to those composite yarnsintended for the weft, the core elements thereof receive only onesizing, and the wrapper components may remain unsized. The several yarnsmay then be fabricated into textile material.

Among others, one feature of the invention resides in the coactionbetween the core and wrapping components. upon setting or stabilizingthe products composed of such special composite yarns. This setting orstabilizing of the product may be done by means of steam or boilingwater. The setting can be effected by different processes that subjectthe textile product to varying degrees of moisture, heat, pressure andtime. These factors will vary. of course, .with the type of textilefabric which is to be processed and will depend further upon the desiredfinished quality. In some cases the simple and inexpensive method ofsubjecting the textile material to the action of water at boilingtemperatures for periods of from about an hour to an hour will give thedesired results. In other cases saturated steam is used, as describedand claimed in U. S. Patent No. 2,433,722 granted Dec. 30, 1947 andheretofore mentioned herein. As the result of such setting treatments,the spun fibers lock themselves around and conform themselves to thecontours of the core of nylon or Vinyon thus inhibiting any tendency ofthe composite yarn to unravel-or slippage of the spun fibers relative tothe continuous filament core component. thereby enhancing and improvingthe wearing qualities of such fabrics or materials.

As will be understood, since the core of the composite yarn of thepresent invention is formed of thermoplastic material, after setting theyarn will be dimensionally stable and not subject to shrinkage or sag asis so characteristic of fabrics made from only spun yarns. Furthermore,textile material made from such composite yarns will have a much higherwet and dry strength than textiles made solely from spun yarns.Manifestiy, in the setting operation the continuous filament core may beshrunk or preshrunk by means of such setting treatments. thereby to setthe continuous filament element in a fixed position. As a result,despite the spun fiber element, which would normally tend to produce afabric of inferior stability, the composite yarns, fabrics and materialsmade therefrom are dimensionally stable and are not subject to anysubstantial sagging or stretch. They-are washable and can be drycleaned. By means of the setting operation, the thermoplastic corecoacts with the wrapping of roving to form an interlocking engagementtherebetween; thus resulting in the formation of a product of unusualstrength and dimensional stability.

Furthermore, the amount or degree of setting employed for the compositeyarn of the present invention may vary extensively, especially inproportion to the relative percentage content of the core element.Depending upon the percentage content of the core with relation to thetotal weight of the fabric, the amount of setting may be varied, indirect proportion to the percentage weight of nylon or Vinyon in thecomposite yarn. Heat setting is the preferred method. However, othermethods of stabilizing or setting the core or the wrapper or both may beemployed, as will be hereinafter described.

It is to be understood, however, that whatever method of setting isemployed-a soft, flexible yarn and fabric are desired. To that end, theinvention, as stated, contemplates and proposes an interlockingengagement between the core and wrapper elements of the composite yarn,or a mechanical conformation therebetween. It does notcontemplateanybonding,fusing or permanent adhesion of these several componentsrelative to it has been found that the preferred each other; nor abonding, fusing or permanent adhesion of-the individual yarns toeach-other in the finished fabric or article.

Where water is employed to set, as previously mentioned, the temperaturethereof may be about 212 F. However. the range of temperatures is notconsidered critical except that the temperature should not be so high asto render the thermoplastic core of nylon or a copolymer of vinylchloride and vinyl acetate such as vinyon" tacky or cementitious oradhesive-so as to adhere or adhesively unite the core to the wrappercomponent. The use of higher ranges would tend to result in a fabriccharacterized by stiffness or brittleness and a corresponding lack offlexibility, together with a lack of porosity, by reason of thecement-like bond or permanent adhesion thereby effected between theseveral elements in the composite yarn and between the several yarnsfabriship between core and wrapper-as distinguished from a fusion,bonding or permanent adhesion: so that these two elements mechanicallyconform in complementary contour. As a result, the

present yarn, fabric and material are flexible, porous and have asoftwool-like hand, as heretofore described and hereinafter claimed.

After heating setting the material as described,

the goods may be scoured and dyed. Then the material is preferablysubjected to a second and successive setting operation, wherein theindividual yarns thereof and especially the wrapper components arefurther stabilized or set. For ex ample, after the dyeing step iscompleted, the goods may be run through a bath containing from about 30%to about 50% caustic soda concentration at about 100 FL, followed byneutralization The material is then given a boil-ofi, which is followedby drying. It is to be noted that the second and successive setting orstabilization just described may also be effected prior to the dyeingstep. However, as stated, it is preferred to so treat the goods afterdyeing: and it has been found that better results ensue if this secondor later setting is done subsequent to dyeing.

In a preferred embodiment, the present invention utilizes a continuousnylon filament core yam of the order of from to '75 denier. perferablywithin the range from 30 to 70 denier and mostdesirably about 30 denier.The number of should be wit a w eof from about t to 8 hanks, a preferredconstruction being of the order of from 6 to 6% hanks.

As will be understood, one or more'of such spun rovings are introducedinto a spinning frame and submitted to the usual drafting operations.The continuous filament component, which should 'be finer than theroving and which ultimately employed when the spun rovings arecombinedwith' the coacting continuous filament core. Fdr

example, a range of from 14 to 25 turns has been found practical andsuccessful; and from 16 to 1'7 turns per inch is considered especiallysuitable.

Furthermore, the relative percentage of spun fiber wrapper content withrespect to the total percentage of the composite yarn may be varied,

as may be found desirable, from about 60% to 85%, thus leaving thecontinuous filament core element of the yarn a relatively minor portionof the composite yarn considered as a whole.

As will hereinafter appear, a series of tests or experiments has beenmade for the purpose of determining the relative merits andeffectiveness of various yarns of specific and definite construction.All of these yarns embody the principles of the present invention. Therelative strength or effectiveness of each yarn is indicated by itsresistance to abrasion expressed in terms of the number of strokes orrubs of a reed device that the yarn can resist before breaking down orunraveling.

found that a very satisfactory specific composite yarn construction was,for the core component, a

turns per inch of core may vary from 7 to 25. In

practice, however, it has been found that a range of the order from 7 to10 turns per "inch is preferred. 7 turns per inch may be considered mostsatisfactory. The covering or wrapper component of the presentinvention, as distinguished from the continuous filament core thereof,may be one or more rovings of rayon, acetate or other suitable fibermaterial having an average length of from about 1%" to about 3". -Inpractice range would run from 1%" to 2 The thickness of this spunwrapper component, explained in terms of composite yarn expressed interms of hanks principles of the present 30 denier 7 turn continuousfilament nylon yarn, comprising 21.6% of the whole. For the spun fibercomponent, 2 ends.of 6.5 hank spun rayon roving were used, constitutingthe balance of 79.4% of the composite yarn. The size of this per poundwas 36.5. When tested for resistance to abrasion, this particularconstruction showed a figure of 58 as the number of strokes or rubs witha read device such a yarn can resist before breaking down. Based onpresent experience, an abrasive resistance of about 50 or more strokesgives the composite yarns very satisfactory performance strength.

It would appear from the experiments that any yarn made according to thepresent invention having a composite yarn size no finer than 40 hanksper pound and with a, percentage of spun fiber of at least 50% would besatisfactory. The denier size of the continuous filament core yarn willdepend, of course, upon the composite yarn size desired, with theheavier denier being used for the coarser composite yarn. From 70 denierdown to 20 denier is considered a satisfactory range for the continuousfilament core. However, it is possible to use a much heavier continuousfilament yarn if a coarse, very strong composite yarn is desired and ifthe end use of such composite yarn would warrant the high cost involved.

The following table-illustrates the results obtained in making compositeyarns embodying the invention, as heretofore indicated and described:

In the tests so conducted, it was- Table of examples Experl- (ore YarnCom site Abrasion mont DonJFil. Hank Roving Size otton Per 01 No. of No.t.p.i. Count spun Strokes 70/23]? 2 ends of 4 hk. 20. 8 72.8 106 40/13/7do... 25. 4 80. 7 v 61 60/20/10 1 end of 3 h 28.5 67. 8 61 /7/12 2 endsof 4 hk 20. 5 88. 8 53 40/l2il7 I end of 3 hk 30.1 77.4 56

/10/7 2 ends of 6.5 bk 36. 5 79.4 58

tiil/ZO/lO 1 0nd of 4 hit 36.8 48.4 30

30/1017 1 0nd of 6.5 hk 59. 5 66. 7 16 Although continuous filamentnylon and vinyon have been cited herein as examples of thermoplasticmaterials particularly adaptable for use as the core of a composite yarnof the present invention, it will be understood that other polyamidesynthetic yarns or other synthetic thermo- I plastic continuous filamentyarns may be employed. Although spun rayon fibers are preferred,

setting of fabrics, piece goods or materials produced according to thepresent invention, other methods for completing stabilization thereofmay be employed. For example, the goods may be padded through a solutionof glyoxal and an acid catalyst. Another suitable method is by theapplication to the goods of synthetic resins of the thermosetting typesuch as, for example, urea formaldehyde or melamine formaldehyde resinsin the presence of a catalyst. In such thermosetting applications, aswill be understood, after depositing the resin containing a suitablecatalyst on the fibers of the goods, heat is applied to polymerize orinsolubilize the resin in situ. Other alkalies may be used such asammonia and, less preferably, emulsions of plastic materials such asvinyl resins, vinylidine resins, styrene resins, and ethyl celluloseemulsions, soya bean protein, or casein, or a synthetic or natural latexemulsion.

Furthermore, it is to be noted that another method of partially orinitially stabilizing fabrics or materials made according to the presentinvention is by setting the same with dry heat as, for example, byrunning the goods through a calender or over heated drums or rollers.This method or process of obtaining an initial stabilization or apartial setting of the fabrics is considered less preferable, however,to the methods previously described herein of setting such as by steamor boiling water. In setting by dry heat, particular care must be takento avoid the application of heat to a degree which would causesubstantial damage or injury or impairment to the goods. In any eventand whatever the method of setting employed, the objects of the presentinvention contemplate that there will be nopermanent adhesion, union orfusion between the individual fibers making up the composite yarns ofthe material or between the several yarns thereof with respect to eachother.

The "-=-="n dyeing, as used herein, is intendedto include any operationor series of operations by means of which textile material is processedinto any desired shade. The term staple fibers as used above and in theclaims hereafter, is intended to include discontinuous natural orsynthetic fibers of any predetermined length, as for examples, spunrayon, spun acetate, cotton fibers, wool fibers and other natural orsynthetic fibers or blends and mixtures thereof.

What is claimed is:

1. Method of manufacturing textile materials which includes the steps ofspinning composite yarns, each made of a core portion of continuousfilament thermoplastic material and a wrapper portion of syntheticfibers for each core, fabricating the yarns into textile materials,partially setting the same in boiling water while preventing anypermanent adhesion between the thermoplastic core and the syntheticwrapper, processing the materials into the desired shade, and thencompleting the setting by applying thereto a synthetic resin of thethermosetting type in the presence of a catalyst.

2. Method of manufacturing textile materials including the steps ofspinning composite yarns, each made of a core portion of thread sizedcontinuous filament thermoplastic material and a wrapper portion foreach core of synthetic fibers, fabricating the yarns into textilematerials, partially setting the same in boiling water while preventingany permanent adhesion between the thermoplastic core and the syntheticwrapper,

processing the materials into the desired shade,

and then completing the setting by applying thereto a synthetic resin ofthe thermosetting type in the presence of a catalyst.

I 3. Method of manufacturing textile materials which includes the stepsof spinning a, plurality of composite yarns made of a core portion ofthermoplastic material associated with a wrapper of synthetic fibers,fabricating the yarns into textile materials and then successivelysetting the same in boiling water while preventing any permanentadhesion between the thermoplastic core and the synthetic fibers,processing the materials into the desired shade, and then completing thesetting by applying thereto a synthetic resin of the thermosetting typein the presence of a catalyst.

4. Method of manufacturing textile materials which includes the steps ofspinning a plurality of composite yarns made of a core portion ofthermoplastic material and a wrapper of staple fibers, fabricating theyarns into textile material and setting the same while preventing anypermanent adhesion between the several yarn elements by first partiallysetting the goods with heat and subsequently completing the setting bysubjecting the same to the action of an amide formaldehyde condensationproduct.

5. Method of making textile material which includes the steps ofspinning composite yarns made of a core portion of thermoplasticmaterial and a wrapper of staple fibers, fabricating the yarns intotextile material and stabilizing the same while preventing any permanentadhesion between the core and wrapper elements by par- 9 tially settingthe textile and subsequently completing the setting by applying theretoa synthetic resin of the thermosetting type in the presence of acatalyst.

6. Method of making textile material which includes the steps ofspinning composite yarns having a core portion of a thermoplasticmaterial and a wrapper portion containing natural fibers, fabricatingthe composite yarns into textile material and stabilizing the same whilepreventing any permanent adhesion between the core and wrap per portionsby first partially setting the textile material in boiling water, andsubsequently processing the materials into the desired shade andcompleting the setting by applying thereto a synthetic resin of thethermosetting type in the presence of a catalyst.

7. Method of manufacturing textile material which includes the steps ofspinning composite yarns, each made of a core of thermoplastic materialand a wrapper of staple fibers, fabricating the yarns into textilematerial, partially setting said material in boiling water whilepreventing any permanent adhesion between the core and wrapper,processing the material into the desired shade, and completing thesetting by the application of a urea formaldehyde condensation productin the presence of a catalyst. v

8. Method of manufacuring' textile materials including the steps ofspinning composite yarns, each having a core portion of continuousfilament thermoplasticmaterial and a wrapper of staple fibers,fabricating the yarns into textile material, and stabilizing the samewhile preventing any permanentadhesion between the core and wrapperelements, by preliminarily setting the textile material in boilingwater, processing the material into the desired shade and completing thesetting by applyin thereto a melamine formaldehyde condensation productin the presence of a catalyst.

9. Method of stabilizing textile material made of composite yarns havinga continuous filament thermoplastic core and a wrapper of staple fiberswhich includes the steps of partially setting the material in boilingwater nent adhesion between the core and the wrapper components.

10. Method of stabilizing textile material containing composite yarnshaving a continuous filament thermoplastic core and a wrapper of staplefibers which includes the steps of partially setting the material bymeans of heat and subsequently completing the setting by subjecting thesame to the action of an amide formaldehyde condensation product, whilepreventing any permanent adhesion between the core and wrapper.

11. Method of stabilizing textile material containing composite yarnshaving a continuous filament thermoplastic core and a wrapper of staplefibers, which includes the steps of partially setting the same by meansof steamand subsequently completing the setting by subjectin the same tothe action of an amide formaldehyde condensation product, whilepreventing any permanent adhesion between the core and wrappercomponents.

12. A new article of manufacture comprising textile material madeaccording to the method of claim 10.

ERIC E. WEISS.

REFERENCES CITED The following references are of record in the file ofthis patent:

' UNITED STATES PATENTS Number Name Date 2,004,656 Fonville June 11,1935 2,044,130 Sonter 'June 16, 1936 2,201,741 Owens May 21, 19402,295,593 Miles Sept. 15, 1942 2,338,983 Thackston et al. Jan. 11, 19442,343,892 Dodge et al Mar. 14, 1944 2,392,842 Doell Jan. 15, 19462,433,722 Weiss Dec. 30, 1947

